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Composition
Tubéreuse Criminelle is Serge Lutens' 1999 infamously indolic tuberose, composed with Christopher Sheldrake. Galbanum and nutmeg give the tuberose a green, camphorous snap, while clove, white musk and myrrh add a feverish, medicinal heat. Voluptuous yet unsettling — the tuberose as femme fatale.
To me this smells like a tuberose at midnight in a room with no windows — galbanum and nutmeg snap green and camphorous first, almost medicinal, like crushed stems and Vicks. Then the tuberose blooms, and it's not the polite kind: indolic, feverish, fleshy, spiked with clove heat and myrrh's dark resin. White musk tries to clean it up and fails beautifully. Voluptuous yet unsettling, exactly as intended — the femme fatale of white florals. This doesn't ask for attention; it takes hostages. Not for beginners — beginners stay away.
⚠ Not for beginners
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