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Composition
Muscs Koublai Khan, launched in 1998 and created by Christopher Sheldrake, is Serge Lutens's genre-defining musk — evocative of China during the reign of Kublai Khan, built on natural musk, civet and ambrette. Civet, ambrette seed and cumin open onto Moroccan rose and costus over castoreum, cistus labdanum, ambergris and patchouli.
Muscs Koublai Khan is the smell of humanity — unfiltered, resinous musk mallow warmed by civet and castoreum, sweetened over hours into something powdery, intimate and magnetic. It starts off raw and animalic, almost like warm skin, then softens into one of the most sensual drydowns in perfumery. It is not pretty; it is carnal, lived-in and unforgettable. This is a fragrance for experienced niche lovers who understand that beautiful doesn't always mean clean. Absolutely not for beginners — sample cautiously, wear sparingly, and never blind-buy; it is deliberately provocative.
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