Composition
A fruity chypre pure parfum created for a V&A exhibition on the Ballet Russes, honoring Sergei Diaghilev. Lemon, bergamot, lime, orange and tarragon open into rose de Mai, jasmin de Grasse, tuberose, ylang ylang, heliotrope, violet, blackcurrant buds and peach, over clove, cumin, nutmeg, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, cedarwood, guaiacwood, sandalwood, benzoin, vanilla, Peru balsam, orris, styrax, labdanum, leather, ambrette, ambergris, musk and civet.
To me this is the Ballet Russes backstage, brilliant and slightly unhinged. Citrus and tarragon open bright over rose, jasmine, tuberose and peach, then clove, cumin and nutmeg turn it feral, and civet arrives. Oakmoss, leather, styrax, labdanum, ambergris, a full chypre orchestra with an animalic solo. It was made for a V&A exhibition on Diaghilev, and it smells like art that misbehaves. The cumin-civet combination is the line most beginners will not cross. Not for beginners — beginners stay away.
⚠ Not for beginners
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