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Composition
Uncut Gem is a men's eau de parfum launched by Frederic Malle in 2022, composed by Maurice Roucel from his own personal cologne formula. A dry spice-and-amber built on an overdose of ambrocenide: ginger, bergamot and nutmeg over a fiery leather-vetiver-frankincense heart, on amber, musk and cedar. Uncompromising, bold and muscular — a deliberate counterpoint to Roucel's Musc Ravageur.
Ginger and bergamot crackle at the start like static electricity, spicy and electric, before the heart turns dark and leathery — vetiver smoke, frankincense resin, a well-worn leather jacket. The ambrocenide base gives it a mineral, almost metallic warmth that lasts for hours. It is confident and masculine without being loud. Beginners should know this is not a fresh-blue crowd-pleaser; it is for those who want edge, and it rewards a full wearing before judgment.
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