Composition
An oriental-floral for women launched in 2014, created by Yann Vasnier, Calice Becker, Shyamala Maisondieu and Antoine Maisondieu. Rum, honey, mandarin orange and bergamot open it; the heart blends black orchid, orchid, jasmine, heliotrope, hyacinth, rose oil, narcissus, magnolia and orange blossom; vanilla, myrrh, suede, sandalwood, Peru balsam and labdanum close it. It riffs on the house's Black Orchid with a more opulent floralcy, in a dim purple flacon.
To me this smells like a jazz club in the 1940s — rum and honey first, dark and golden as the drinks, mandarin and bergamot flashing like stage lights. Then the orchids: black orchid, mysterious and velvety, surrounded by jasmine, heliotrope, hyacinth, rose, narcissus, magnolia, orange blossom — a whole hothouse in the dark. Vanilla, myrrh, suede, sandalwood, balsams melting underneath like the night itself. Opulent, honeyed, unapologetically glamorous. The scent of a red dress and no regrets. Four perfumers built this hothouse — Vasnier, Becker, and the Maisondieus — and every flower earns its place. Beginner-friendly.
✓ Beginner-friendly
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