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Composition
A dark leather-incense eau de parfum launched in 2006 by Etat Libre d'Orange. It opens with black pepper, safraleine and incense over a heart of leather, lily absolute and rockrose absolute, settling on patchouli, vetiver and oakmoss. Austere, smoky and resolutely gothic.
To me this smells like the inside of a burned-out chapel after the candles have all guttered — black pepper and incense in the first breath, sharp and holy, safraleine's leathery smoke rising like the ghost of a fire. Then the leather arrives, dark and worn, rockrose absolute clinging to it like char on old timber. Patchouli, vetiver, and oakmoss grind underneath — damp stone, dark earth, something buried. This is the perfume that made nothing smell like everything. It is not pretty. It is unforgettable. Not for beginners — beginners stay away.
⚠ Not for beginners
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