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Composition
Carnation
Ylang-Ylang
Orris Root
Tuberose
Turkish RoseFirst by Van Cleef & Arpels (1976) is the jewellery house's debut fragrance, an aldehydic floral designed by Jean-Claude Ellena. Its opulent pyramid opens with aldehydes, bergamot, black currant, peach, mandarin and raspberry, blooms through a lush heart of narcissus, hyacinth, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, carnation, ylang-ylang, orris, tuberose, Turkish rose and orchid, and settles into civet, oakmoss, honey, sandalwood, amber, musk, vetiver, tonka and vanilla. It is widely regarded as the first true 'jewel' fragrance and a landmark of 1970s perfumery.
First is perfumery royalty — the fragrance that put a jewellery house on the perfume map, and still the most decorated aldehydic floral of the 70s. It opens like a grand ballroom: sparkling aldehydes, peach and black currant, then an enormous heart of jasmine, rose, tuberose and lily-of-the-valley — big, golden, unabashedly feminine. The dry-down of oakmoss, honey and civet is what gives it that vintage bite and the staggering longevity. For beginners: this is a demanding, old-school powerhouse — try before you blind-buy, and wear it on cooler days rather than in Indian summer.
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