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Composition
The Grudge (2024, Force Majeure, perfumer Euan McCall) finds poetry in ambergris washing onto a Scottish beach: the 'white gold' of the sea. Wormwood, copal and olibanum open it; seaweed, calamus and tea form the heart; oakmoss, real ambergris, oud, tobacco, labdanum and musk ground the base.
The Grudge is the most nature-identical ambergris perfume you can wear: damp cold grottoes, mothball-fresh earthiness, bile and chalk -- fresh and musty at once, amplified tenfold. Weirdly beautiful. Beginners: the cleanest, most wearable of the trio.
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Dupe lab
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